The scarlet branches are extremely showy and add significant winter interest.Īrctic Fire® Red Twig Dogwood is a multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with an upright spreading habit of growth. It produces white berries in late summer. The pointy leaves turn an outstanding burgundy in the fall. If it is dry, give it a good soaking with the hose end (no nozzle) watering the soil only, not the leaves.A compact, dwarf form and very hardy shrub, ideal for general garden use in northern landscapes intense red stems stand out against the winter snow, excellent for massing some suckeringĪrctic Fire® Red Twig Dogwood has clusters of creamy white flowers at the ends of the branches in late spring. If it is moist, there is no need to water. How do you know if your plants need water? The easiest way to tell is to touch the soil around the roots.After the first season, plants should only be watered during extended periods without rain.Stick your finger into the soil around 3” to check soil moisture.Beyond the 6 week establishment period, water once per week, unless rains occur.
During this period, water plants as often as every 2-4 days at the start and at least a minimum of once per week. Plants typically take approximately 6 weeks to establish new roots in your soil.Winter pruning to remove old stems and a light summer trim will keep it looking fresh.Pruning will greatly improve this plant's overall shape and form through-out the years.
Prune late winter to early spring - Encourage bright red stems, annually prune a third of oldest stems to six inches, leaving strong young whips.Containers - Although it is not essential for containers to be pruned after planting, a light pruning for shape, to remove any broken branches from shipping, or to thin out a heavily branched plant will help in the transplanting process and in the appearance of your new planting.All pruning should be done with a sharp pruning shears. Pruning should occur either before or as soon after planting as possible. Bare Root - Prune ALL bare root plants to reduce transplant shock and ensure success.Water well to settle soil around the root ball. Backfill the hole with soil, making sure the top of the root ball is visible and slightly higher than the soil around it.Place fertilizer packets into the bottom of the hole (if purchased).If necessary, add soil under the ball so the root flair is exposed. This root flair should show when the tree is planted. Notice where the base of the trunk flairs out from the tree.Rotate the plant to the proper position.With shovel or knife trim bottom 2" off of the root ball for plants in plastic containers.Slide plant from pot by tapping on the bottom of the pot.See our link below “Handling & Planting Guidelines” for illustrations on planting.Back fill the balance of the soil and water well.Re-adjust plant and fill the hole with the rest of the soil.Spread the roots and fill halfway with soil, then water until soil settles completely saturating the soil and planting pit.Do not place other fertilizers in the planting hole. Place fertilizer packets in hole (if purchased).Trim off the broken roots and branches.
The crown or graft of the plant should be slightly higher than ground level where it was grown at the nursery. Dig a hole at least 6" wider and the same depth as the root mass.If a hard frost is expected be sure to hold off on planting. A good indicator if you can still plant is if the ground is still workable you’re good to go. Dig a hole no deeper than the depth of the container and 6" or more, making sure it’s wider on the sides. Containers - Completely saturate all container plants by putting in a larger container of water until stops bubbling, remove.All bare-root plants must be trimmed when planted. Each plant type will be labeled separately for identification. Soak roots in buckets of water until planted.